Love

Best for lovebirds:

The ‘Verona of Romeo and Juliet’ tour

How firmly you believe in the legend of the local lovebirds is up to you, but most scholars do accept that the Montagues and the Capulets lived here. Take the ‘Verona of Romeo and Juliet’ tour with Juliet & Co. and see for yourself how the star-crossed pair left their mark on the city. Starting from Piazza delle Erbe, the tour includes Casa Romeo (Romeo's house), Juliet’s tomb and the Casa Giulietta (Juliet’s House), where a balcony was erected in the 20th century as a nod to tourist expectation. Cynics may want to have a pinch of salt prepared, but it’s all in good fun. And even if the tour doesn’t convert you to a born-again romantic, the local bakeries’ baci di Giulietta (‘kisses of Juliet’) meringue cookies will.

Where: Juliet & Co. Tel: +39 (0)45 810 31 73, julietandco@hotmail.com, Tours last 75 minutes and cost €10pp; children are free. Booking required.

Website: http://http://www.julietandco.com/

Best for soaking up romance:

Sogno di Giulietta

Although people say that Venice is the most romantic city in the world, its westerly sister is also in the running. Shakespeare himself called her ‘most fair’, and the words of his famous star-crossed lovers – who allegedly existed – are recreated here daily under Juliet’s balcony, where thousands caress a statue of Ms Capulet in the hope of meeting their one true love. Stay close to this love-fest at the hotel next door – the Sogno di Giulietta (Juliet’s Dream) – where four-poster beds draped with floating fabrics provide a backdrop for romance, while your own balconies allow you to recreate Shakespeare’s famous sweet nothings with your beloved in private.
Where:Relais de Charme Il Sogno di Giulietta, Via Cappello 23, Cortile di Giulietta, 37121 Verona. Tel: +39 (0)45 8009932
Website: http://www.sognodigiulietta.it/

Eating

Best place to eat (a horse):

Bottega del Vino and Groto de Corgnan

Bad news for vegans but great news for carnivores: the kitchens of Verona are famous for their meat. Raw beef and ham, veal and even pastissada de caval (spicy horse stew), served with polenta or rice – and plenty of local wine – are just some of the delicacies on offer. Eschew the overcrowded hostelries on Piazza Brá in favour of 120-year-old Bottega del Vino, with its 2,500 bottle wine cellar. Or just outside town, in the mountain village of Sant’Ambrogio di Valpolicella, there’s the highly-praised Groto de Corgnan, which serves its own cured meats.

Where: Bottega del Vino, Vicolo Scudo di Francia, 3, 37121 Verona, Italy. Tel: +39 (0)45 800453. Groto de Corgnan, Di Giorgio Soave, Via Corgnan, 41, 37010 Sant’ Ambrogio Valpolicella. Tel: +39 (0)45 7731372

Website:http://www.bottegavini.it/ http://www.grotodecorgnan.it/

Surround sound

Best for surround sound:

Arena di Verona

With a legacy of great architecture – left over from its former Venetian rulers – and its World Heritage status, Verona’s not exactly lacking in visual impact. The highlight has to be Verona’s arena, which is second only to Rome’s coliseum as Italy’s finest remaining example of a Roman amphitheatre, and is one of the most intact pieces of the Roman era anywhere. Luckily for visitors, it’s not preserved in cotton wool but houses a working 22-000 seat opera house where the Verona Opera Festival runs from late-June to August. In the off-season you can catch the company’s performers at the city’s Teatro Filarmonico.

Where: Arena di Verona, Piazza Brà, 1, 37121 Verona VR, Italy. Tel: +39 (0)45 8003204

Website: http://www.arena.it/en-us/homeen.html

Days out

Best excursion:

Lake Garda

Just 40 minutes from the city is Italy’s largest lake – Lago di Garda (Lake Garda) – a serious beauty, surrounded by alpine peaks on three sides. Even in winter the temperature here is mild, as the water retains the heat of the summer sun, sheltered by the mountains. Creatives will want to head for Sirmione, on the south shores: one of northern Italy’s most exclusive communes and a refuge for writers dating back to the Roman poet Catullus, and – more recently – Tennyson and James Joyce. More active types can rent a boat, go fishing, riding or hiking, or even visit Gardaland – the lake’s very own theme park.

Where: Lake Garda, Italy

Website:http://http://www.gardalake.it/

Relaxation

Best for people watching:

Casa Mazzanti, Piazza della Erbe

By day a herb and vegetable market (hence the name), Piazza della Erbe is the beating heart of the city. During Roman times, this square was the forum, where shopping, politics and personal business were carried out – purposes it still serves for the local citizens today. Come to climb the Torre dei Lamberti – the highest point in the city – or to enjoy the combination of Roman and Renaissance architecture. It’s also the place to be seen in the evening, as locals and tourists gather at the square’s cafés. Try the centrally located cafe Casa Mazzanti; its extensive cocktail list and outdoor terrace make it the ideal spot for observation and relaxation.
Where: Casa Mazzanti, Piazza delle Erbe, 32, 37121 Verona. Tel: +39 (0)45 8003217
Website: http://www.casamazzanticaffe.it/

Best antidote for reality:

Giardino Giusti

‘Must-sees’ like the Arena, Torre dei Lamberti and, of course, Juliet’s Balcony can get pretty crowded, so if it all gets too much, take refuge in the Giardino Giusti, or ‘righteous gardens’, on the other side of the river. With their avenues of cypress trees, crumbling pagan statues and sheltered fountains, these medieval gardens give the impression of timeless tranquillity and peace, as if tended by monks. Not only do these medieval gardens give you the chance to cool down and take stock, but the towering belvederes of its many tiered hanging gardens are worth the climb for an (almost) private view of the city.
Where: Giardino Giusti, Via Cappelletta 5, Verona
Website: http://www.verona.net

Best for a lazy afternoon:

Valpolicella

The hills to the north of the city make up the wine-producing region of Valpolicella, where grapes have been pressed and their nectar fermented since Roman times. Even its name comes from the Latin phrase <Vallis Polis Cellae> – ‘valley of many cellars’. Some of these cellars are open for tastings – good news for anyone who likes a rich, dry Italian reds. Cellar Tours do a one-day trip, tasting Amarone della Valpolicella wines at two cellars, with a four-course lunch included to soak up the booze. Or organise your own tasting by sampling wines at Enoteca della Valpolicella in this hillside villa of Fumane (Sas di Riolfi A e C, Via Osan 45, Tel: +39 45 683 9146). It’s well worth the drive from Verona for its delicious tasting menus to accompany a great bottle of red.
Where: Cellar Tours will pick you up from your hotel.

Website: www.cellartours.com